Better than down time

Lately, the good times have been flowing. Today was one of those really good days where things just clicked. It leaves you to wonder how can you make every time you want to climb or do something productive feel like it did today.

As what has been the normal for Thursdays, Ben Eastman, Megan, and myself once again met up at Ironworks. Megan got herself a membership and celebrated by bouldering and doing some routes. Ben and I got back on the sharp end. Ben had a good training day by doing both the 12d and 12c (which he said felt as hard as the 12d) that he fell on last time first try today. It was rad. One route though he looked super solid and there was no question if he would fall or not. But the next one...it felt like falling would be imminent. For myself, I had been thinking about this one route since last week. Today also marked the first time I didn't feel anxious about falling or failing. I was anxious to get on it because it's a rad route going at 13a (a plastic one no less!). It's mostly pinches and sloppy (my hands are sweating typing this thinking of it that's how rad I think it is). I got two tries (out of three total) on it and feel confident I'll be able to do it all in one shot next week. Major progress.

To see progress that fast in a short amount of time is refreshing. You don't always get that with climbing. It comes in small amounts a majority of the time. Most days, I don't feel strong and end up falling a majority if the time. But there's a saying, "If you're not falling you're not trying." And while sending something is pretty damn rad, you can't be 100% on every single day. But this is isn't the time nor place to discuss that issue. 

Just find what gets you stoked, and go get it. Be a route or boulder problem.

For a change

I guess it's not a change since it's still climbing, but it's not bouldering 100% of the time. It's routes once a week at Ironworks. So okay, bouldering 90% of the time. Either way, tying in a good way to humble your self. It keeps you balanced so you don't get injured from bouldering. At least that's what I feel like it's doing for me.

Ben Eastman, Megan, and I have been tying in the past two Thursdays. I gotta say, I don't believe I would have enjoyed climbing routes again if you asked me a year ago. You would have heard some statement along the lines of, "There's no way, I have no endurance." Or some other excuse. We all have our favorite excuses we love to throw out, but this isn't the time nor the place to throw them out to the world. Save it.

But back to this whole route climbing. It has made me realize that I do enjoy being on a rope. ANd it has pointed out that my route reading abilities have greatly deteriorated over the last year. Being able to read a sequence correctly and find holds while on the ground so as not to be confused about what to do up high has slightly diminished. But it will come back in time.

The last time I did routes seriously was with Zero Gravity in 2008. In good shape, laps became monotonous. Routes stopped appealing to me with the allure of being fun. Bouldering was itching at me to take it and run with it. So I did. Harnesses became used less frequently, my gri-gri sitting idly. It would take a bout of mild elbow tendonitis to get me psyched on doing routes again. At first for the change of pace. 'Just so I don't injure myself,' I told myself. But that all changed. Ben and Megan are two route partners that keep it fresh and fast. Three person rotation means a somewhat short rest time (not as short as t is with two people). Recovery isn't the speediest but in time, I'll learn how to rest and recover faster. But for now, being pumped and falling is normal. It's welcomed. You only get one take and that should be at the anchors.

As Scott Cory's dad repeatedly told me "Climb, fall, or get off the f'**king wall. When in doubt run it out."

All the time

Since my last post, I STILL haven't seen rock for awhile. And by rock I mean the local choss I MEAN impeccable piece of stone north of Yosemite. Ok, so it's not the best rock ever and most dismiss it as choss, BUT STILL!

What has happened:

• 22nd birthday
• Got back in a harness, enjoyed doing routes, and am psyched on route climbing
• Almost got serious elbow tendonitis, but after doing routes and being careful it seems to have dissipated.

I have taken some pictures since then. Until I go out and get more video of climbing, enjoy the pictures.

The morning reading

Trains

Pre climbing…

The Claw and Meg

…post climbing

Golden Gate engulfed in fog

Breakfast for dinner

Thanks for reading!

As of lately

In the department of outside climbing, it's seems to be getting less and less. I didn't go outside at all in June. That's not good. But I can say that the psyche is there, it's the weather that doesn't coincide with the psyche I have. I have been indoors more and more, and I find myself once again becoming bored with indoor climbing. Checking the weather, it's predicting cool weather in Berkeley and mildly warm in Saratoga (which is close to Castle Rock).

But indoors is good for training, even when you chuff on problems you could probably do, but somehow, you can't. Frustration because you feel weak, swearing at yourself for not being able to pull. You're forearm hurts, you have a headache (and many more excuses). In the end, you end up putting your shoes back on and trying again and again, falling over and over. This, is the vicious cycle of becoming either stronger or seemingly more frustrated at your self. Either way, you're still climbing. And don't forget that it could be a lot worse. You could be sick.

Since i haven't been outside lately, I did get some photos.

Burrito

hair cut

Warm

Too hot

mmmmmm....pork

Thanks for reading!

Ben Polanco

Climber Profile: Ben Polanco

Shot by: Anthony Lapomardo

If you climb in the Bay Area, chances are you've met Ben.

If not, then sucks to be you.