2011 was just the beginning…

This year I was able to witness myself standing on top of more projects than last year. I also was there to witness a lot of falling and my friend Nina Williams sending her not one, but her first TWO V10s in the same day. That was pretty rad.

video and edit: Beau Kahler

To say that 2011 was the best year ever would be incorrect.

2011 was just the beginning. Prior to these times climbing, I have never been psyched to climb hard things. Breaking through came slower than a tortoise full of rigor mortise. After my Colorado trip and then the two weeks spent in the hollow tanks (Hueco Tanks), the psyche has been on the rise. Coupled with the weather staying dry and a host of other things, I have a strong feeling that things will only get better from here.

Here is a Mini Top 5 from your truly about the top five boulder problems that I sent in 2011. Ones that stood out most out of the 100 problems I sent.

As 2012 is 45 minutes from us, I ask you stay safe. And keep climbing, indoors or out (outside is preferred though). And keep reading my blog and telling people about it.

THANK YOU FOR READING!

Gregor Peirce, The Swarm V14

Check out Gregor Peirce destroying The Swarm (V14) in Bishop. He's come a long way from being the dark horse winner at youth nationals in Maryland in 2007. Good job dude! Enjoy!

In the face like a can of mace baby!

Wednesday I had a pretty good day at Castle Rock. Thursday, I had a better day at Mordor…I mean Mortar Rock. The weather is PRIME everywhere. From Bishop to the Bay, it's sending weather. And I've taken advantage of the window of weather.

"If god took a dump, it would be Mortar Rock." -Gregor Peirce

Mortar has benches. Does your home area have benches? Didn't think so.

Mortar Rock normally isn't an area where you complain about weather. Unless its hot as balls out there, in which case you probably are better off not climbing there, its good. Today was perfect. Windy, cold, not cloudy. It provided a window to send some unfinished business. But let's be real, I had barely just started. Jungle Fever is a contender for the hardest V8 in America in my books. It hasn't seen many flashes. And onsights? Good luck with that kids.

I've played around on it for years. At first I couldn't touch the first hold. Simple right? Foot holds have broken and the holds accumulate chalk and sweat over years. First done by Scott Frye in 1979 (someone correct me if I'm wrong here please), it sits as a test piece for boulders to come and try, get spanked on, and eventually do it. The closet I got was before my trip to Hueco Tanks in November. I got to the "crux" (the whole thing is cruxy) peanut hold and stabbed into the the finger lock hold before falling yet again to the pads. Today, I would not be denied.

Jungle Fever V8

After doing the poor mans version of Full Fever (the sit INTO Jungle Fever), Yellow Fever (do the first two moves of Jungle Fever, use the slopey gaston to the left and grab the triangle and top out Per Jungle Fever. Basically skips the "crux" of Jungle), I rested for 22 minutes. After telling myself I could finish the six pack off (have fun with your Gatorade kids!) if I sent Jungle today, I put my shoes back on and fired it off first try today. Its the first time I've felt psyched to send something at Mortar in…a long time. I was able to go down the street to Indian Rock, see my friend Austin Cheung, and repeat The Bubble for the first time in years. It's still committing as it first was and I remember why I never repeated as I topped out. I think some guy, some funny guy said, "That was terrifying." and another funny guy, some wise guy said, "Terrifying. Define: TERRIFYING. When you think you're life is going to be over. likethat."

The City and Golden Gate

It's an awfully long walk…back to the train from here

Thanks for reading, have a good day.

Time is a man made deception

I once overheard some smug hipster make a comment about time. Ironically it was on 11/11/11. Those sneaky bastards! Always ironic. Or is it moronic? Either way…time has been spent mostly indoors. The weather this past week has provided a window of opportunity for some outside days. Castle Rock on Wednesday with Ben and Meg was cold and crisp. Crisper than a wafer thin cracker. I managed to do the Sharma Traverse/360° Traverse. It really is a 270° traverse since the full 360° has a tree blocking the last little bit.

Champions!

We ventured over to the Nature Nazis after I proceeded to get spanked like an ugly step child on Eco Terrorist. I managed to touch the lip one time. It's definitely harder than Deforestation. How much? Time will tell. Anyways, Nature Nazis, end of the day, kinda warmed down, jumped on this problem I had seen in a video of this problem, Neo Nazi Eliminate, that people were calling V6/7. If it were in Hueco or Bishop it would maybe be called V4. MAYBE. I saw this video, got a hunch it wasn't as hard as said. As it turned out, my hunch was correct. No disappoint. Ok nothing to see here, move along folks.

"The Retard" is the REAL name for this. Joel Ruscher put it up. There used to be a tiny crystal on one of the pinches and would proceed to draw blood every time. Thanks Jeremy Meigs and Melodie for the correct info on the climb.

One summer, I met two kids from Jersey. One was a 14 year old little shit that sent EVERY thing he tried that trip with the exception of Eco Terrorist. He flashed this problem in 80º heat. His name? Jason Applestein. I will never forget that Yo! Basecamp or him.

Castle Rock is always fun though. It's the best option for bouldering in the Bay Area if you can get outside and don't mind the 1hr drive from the Berkeley area (Chris Bloch driving time, fastest time so far to Castle Rock parking lot that I know of). Also, watch out for the rangers patrolling (trolling). Hide yo chalk, hide yo brushes, and don't bring the glass beer bottles or you risk getting a ticket. Yes, even for stick brushes. Witnessed some people being written up and ticketed for brushes. Respect the rule and play nice.

Bacon: if you don't eat it, hey more for me.

Thanks for reading!

Louder Than 11 presents: Straight Out of Africa

If you don't know, now you know. Louder Than 11 has had a big year. BIG. As in huge. This is their latest movie featuring Bay Area's own Scott Cory. Along with Brian Antheunisse, Dave Wetmore, and Rob D'Anastasio, witness climbing that will melt your face off. Enjoy!

Take a holiday

Besides I have not been climbing outdoors (as of today) and mostly indoors, I haven't been up to much. Trying to avoid downtown areas is proving to be difficult as I have to go through downtown Walnut Creek on a daily basis to get to the train.

I have been climbing routes again at Ironworks with Ben Eastman and Meg. All that does for my bouldering is make it feel like I can climb for longer periods of time before I start flailing around like a gumby and give in to some excuse. Joe Czerwinski once enlightened me (in regards to excuses), "Excuses are 90% true, 100% unacceptable."

While I have no interesting outdoor epics or tales to provide you with, I do have some photos. I have taken. Enjoy!

Think Ultramega on East Mt. No make it about 10 moves longer and steeper.

Ivan Greene exhausted.

Bolt to the forehead. It hurt, a lot.

Gym rats galore

This is always the most fun to set and forerun

Brian "Cuz" Hedrick

Hueco Showzen: Maximum Deadpoint

Want to get psyched on some problems at Hueco Tanks for an upcoming trip? Or are you just bored and want to watch people climbing some good problems in the desert that smells like a forest? No? Too bad! Here is last years Hueco Showzen from Chris Bloch. Enjoy!

Torque Spanner V8 [FOOTAGE]

A couple days before the two weeks I spent in Hueco Tanks with Chris and Jen, Donn and Michele Goodhew invited me to come along to Yosemite for a day trip. This was the first problem I wanted to get done with before I attempted Midnight Lightning (footage on my blog or on DeadPoint).

Thanks for watching!

Occupy Hueco

I could write some long, detailed, and untimely rambling post (or posts) about my two weeks in Hueco Tanks. But let's save some time; yours for reading and mine for typing.

First of many burritos this trip. Best carnitas I've had in CA in Jalos Taqueria off 580 in Tracy, CA

"Aye aye captain!"

Thanksgiving break was spent with Chris Bloch and Jen Atkin with special guest appearances by Joe Czerwinski and Adrianne Miller (and a cast of others as well). We decided to start our own occupy movement in Hueco Tanks State Park. We are the 1% who climb outside…and we are the 99% who get spanked on rock climbs like misbehaving children in the 1800's. For myself, it had been way to long away from Hueco Tanks and the place felt like a new area to me. My last trip I didn't do as much stuff as I felt I wanted to and wasn't as strong as I was this trip (although I still feel I need to be stronger for about 50% of the stuff I would like to climb there). Two weeks didn't feel like enough time to do half of what I wanted or see what I wanted to see.

Occupy Hueco: We are the 1%

Because no one really wants to read in great detail about how I flashed V9 or V5, here's a problem (V5 and up) run down of the trip (for myself). Chris Bloch gathered the video so he has the footage.

Animal Acts (V5)

Pink Moon (V5)

Walrus in a Blender (V5)

Winged Victory (V5)

Dragonfly (V5)

That Hi-Pro Glow (V6)

See Spot Run (V6) *Saw a video of Brandi Proffit doing this making it look easier than doing some scary, sketchy ass hand foot match because I had no clue what to do. She made it look casual, while I think I made it look like I was about to pitch off backwards in the footage.
Big Iron on His Hip (V7) *If people are climbing on the the problem before you, don't barge in and attack the wall. Be kind and ask the person if they mind you climbing on the problem with them. Offer to brush holds kids.
McBain (V8)
Beer Can Traverse (V9) *Finger friendly with possibly the highest dab factor of any climb I have ever climbed.
P.F.O.S. (V9) *Again, always ask to climb with the person who was there before you get on the climb and flash it. Brush the holds for them too so they can send right after you…kids.
Frogger (V9) *Possibly one of the coolest lines I flashed after Chris pieced me out on it fifth try.
10-10 (V10) *Feels V10 when you have a squawker in your ear, a bruised heel for the heel hooks, and a bruised foot from the day before on it.

"Execute the moves flawlessly and you will send." -James Conn
(10-10, V10)

Typical dinners this trip. That's right that was made on a Coleman stove people. Thanks Jen and Adrianne!

Adrianne Miller on The Fin (V4). 

Occupy Barnes & Noble

I ended up doing 22 new problems this trip, with all the warm ups and moderates I did. It was a fun trip and I learned a lot. Hopefully I can go back this season again with some friends and chip away at my new list (revisions were made) that is 44 problems now instead of 58 as my original list proposed.

"Access is a gift. Climbing is a gift. This place, is a gift."

Jen Atkin

"I want a litre a cola."

By the time I get to Arizona 

Sunset in Wilcox.

Home…sort of. 9 more hours from this sign. Sigh.

Thanks for reading!

Occupy Hueco is coming…

The past two weeks have been void of any update due to my participation in the occupy movement taking place in Hueco Tanks. 2 weeks of camping and climbing on the boulders was much needed with good friends.

As you read this, I am typing away. Clickity clickity clickity CLACK! The keyboard sounds like a gat with the repeated hitting of keys faster than my eyes care to see. Although I'm not really looking at the keyboard…ANYWHO, sit tight y'all.

Or better yet, take advantage of the weather we have going on in the Bay (if you're here) and get outside. Me? I'm waiting till I'm rested up to go climbing. Get o n out ya hear??

Thanks for reading!