Follow me into tomorrow

If you really enjoy my blog here, you'll love the new one over in tumblr…

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I'll be updating there from now on.

It's been good times here BLOGGER. Good times…

Shit Route Setters Say

Here is Chris Bloch's "Shit Says" video, "Shit Route Setters Say".

Filmed on location at Bridges Rock Gym

Starring

Wes Miraglio (hey that's me!)

Shoes

Mad Rock

The weekend update with your host

This past weekend was the YCL (Youth Climbing League) competition at Bridges Rock Gym. The YCL was run by this woman Alison before Yo Basecamp proprietors, Andy and Lisa Puhvel, took over. I'm pretty stoked on that move because

1. They make climbing FUN. Always. Why do you think I did 21 camps in 7 years with Yo Basecamp?
2. The YCL isn't about winning. There are no national titles, no champions per say. It's really about getting kids introduced to comp climbing that's not serious or fast paced as USAC/ABS comps

It was also fun just to watch kids compete and have fun on the problems. It almost made me want to compete again. Possibly? We will see what unfolds. 

Explaining the rules to the kids

Kids climbing.

But for now, I'm more excited to climb outdoors and stay psyched on problems that have seeped into my consciousness in areas I have been too. Things in Hueco like…Javelina, Russian Woman, Full Service, Sunshine, Free Willie. Or Pugilist in the Valley. Even Joe's Valley (I was probably not in climbing shape when I went).

Hopefully my trip to Hawaii will bring about more climbing outdoors in the areas there. My friend and Volcanic Gym owner, Justin Ridgely, has been developing like a mad man over there. There is so much potential on Oahu it seems like. His instagram is always gets me excited about climbing over there. So stoked.

In other news, be on the look out for the newest addition to the viral bandwagon of the Shit Says videos that have been circulating the internet, "Shit Route Setters Say". Filmed on location at Bridges Rock Gym in El Cerrito, CA by Chris Bloch starring me. Shoes and chalk bag provided by Mad Rock Climbing.

Mad Rock: It's not just friction, it's science friction.

It's raining!

Because the rain has come (read: FINALLY!), indoors has been the modus operandi for climbing. While I prefer outside more (what climber doesn't??) I'll have to take what I can get. And right now, plastic grips secured by metal to walls of wood with textured paint seem to be a good way to climb. I have somehow I have managed to spilt the skin on my right middle finger. No clue how since I don't use chalk with drying agents added in (i.e. Flashed chalk is tight n'shit).

Photo dump time? Why yea, here are some for your viewing pleasure!

In the game longer than most will ever be. JYEAH!
Joe Kinder

New chalk bag?

Rain…finally

Indoors is better than sitting around

"Hang board is SUCH good training." More shit climbers says

20min hang board workout on the Moon board. Still got it.

"HEY EVERYBODY HERE COMES THE CHOO CHOO!" -Zach Galifianakis

Valley time

The weather has been incredibly dry and cold that to not take advantage of climbing outside would be a shame. In the past two weeks I have been in Yosemite Valley trying to climb problems that have continually kicked my ass. Over, and over, and over again. I am still unable to get off the ground on Bruce Lee. Either my right foot slips off as I'm bringing my left up or some other useless excuse. It doesn't matter because Austin did it after looking like he wouldn't be able to. The amazing feat was he didn't do the hand sequence he planned on. Impressively using the worst hold to go to to jug. Most impressive climbing I have seen so far of 2012. And it's not even February.

$12 gets you a bagel, coffee, and cereal at the cafeteria.

As for myself, I could tell I needed a rest day after setting at Bridges. Oh well, sometimes you just need to suck it up and keep trying. My second day on wasn't really amazing, only doing the Angler (V3) at Curry. I should have been wearing something warmer because I was shaking and cold the rest of the day. My toes were numb and trying Slap Shot in the dark (again by headlamps) became futile when I couldn't stop shaking because of the cold. You live and learn I suppose.



Thursday was slightly better, as I felt ok. My skin didn't hurt and I wanted to check out Pugilist at the Ahwahnee Boulders. It's a really cool line that shut me down near the top. I worked out all the moves and somehow couldn't pull it together for a send that day. I ended up doing the Ahwahnee Arête (V4) and No Fur (V3) and some other V3 there. Nothing hard for me, but new problems. It counts for something. I really need a trip after a rest day to feel productive (in my opinion) I suppose. Hopefully I will be able to get back before my up coming trip to Hawaii or before the weather turns (eventually).

Ahwahnee Arête (V4) Possibly the tallest V4 I have done.

Unfortunately, my camera and batteries crapped out this trip. I got no sends on my camera but all on Austin GoPro. Hopefully, I can make the upgrade to HD soon, as my camera is stuck in 2005 quality wise…

Thanks for reading!

Yosemite Valley

6am start to the Valley

Every trip to Yosemite I seem to be served a plate of humble pie no matter what. I do a send one project, get humbled on the next. Bruce Lee did not want me to get off the ground today. Austin though, can do the moves easily. He and I are two opposites. Austin has a more technical approach to climbing (Full Fever WIRED) and climbs pretty static in comparison to my style which lends its self to more powerful and dynamic movement. But comparing styles is apples to oranges really; who cares? As long as you're trying problems right?

Although Bruce Lee took us out and spanked us like misbehaving children of the 19th century, I had much more success on Flake Out (V7) on the B1 Boulder at Sentinel Rock. Previously, I couldn't get off the ground. I couldn't pull my feet up off the ground. From there you have had to shift your weight to the right to gain and underling that leads to easy-ish terrain. It's especially fun in the dark by a not-as-bright-as-I-wanted headlamp. Thankful I had some light and spotters to top out in darkness.

Flake Out V7, 2nd go by headlamp.

Afterwards this kid, Mike, got me psyched on Slapshot. We had a lot of near sends but neither one was able to stick the crux dead point at the top in the dark. One to come back for…hopefully next week again.

Hopefully next week with Austin again. He needs to…no, he WILL send Bruce Lee. There are questions. Joe Czerwinski once told me, "Excuses are 90% true…100% unacceptable."

2011 was just the beginning…

This year I was able to witness myself standing on top of more projects than last year. I also was there to witness a lot of falling and my friend Nina Williams sending her not one, but her first TWO V10s in the same day. That was pretty rad.

video and edit: Beau Kahler

To say that 2011 was the best year ever would be incorrect.

2011 was just the beginning. Prior to these times climbing, I have never been psyched to climb hard things. Breaking through came slower than a tortoise full of rigor mortise. After my Colorado trip and then the two weeks spent in the hollow tanks (Hueco Tanks), the psyche has been on the rise. Coupled with the weather staying dry and a host of other things, I have a strong feeling that things will only get better from here.

Here is a Mini Top 5 from your truly about the top five boulder problems that I sent in 2011. Ones that stood out most out of the 100 problems I sent.

As 2012 is 45 minutes from us, I ask you stay safe. And keep climbing, indoors or out (outside is preferred though). And keep reading my blog and telling people about it.

THANK YOU FOR READING!

Gregor Peirce, The Swarm V14

Check out Gregor Peirce destroying The Swarm (V14) in Bishop. He's come a long way from being the dark horse winner at youth nationals in Maryland in 2007. Good job dude! Enjoy!

In the face like a can of mace baby!

Wednesday I had a pretty good day at Castle Rock. Thursday, I had a better day at Mordor…I mean Mortar Rock. The weather is PRIME everywhere. From Bishop to the Bay, it's sending weather. And I've taken advantage of the window of weather.

"If god took a dump, it would be Mortar Rock." -Gregor Peirce

Mortar has benches. Does your home area have benches? Didn't think so.

Mortar Rock normally isn't an area where you complain about weather. Unless its hot as balls out there, in which case you probably are better off not climbing there, its good. Today was perfect. Windy, cold, not cloudy. It provided a window to send some unfinished business. But let's be real, I had barely just started. Jungle Fever is a contender for the hardest V8 in America in my books. It hasn't seen many flashes. And onsights? Good luck with that kids.

I've played around on it for years. At first I couldn't touch the first hold. Simple right? Foot holds have broken and the holds accumulate chalk and sweat over years. First done by Scott Frye in 1979 (someone correct me if I'm wrong here please), it sits as a test piece for boulders to come and try, get spanked on, and eventually do it. The closet I got was before my trip to Hueco Tanks in November. I got to the "crux" (the whole thing is cruxy) peanut hold and stabbed into the the finger lock hold before falling yet again to the pads. Today, I would not be denied.

Jungle Fever V8

After doing the poor mans version of Full Fever (the sit INTO Jungle Fever), Yellow Fever (do the first two moves of Jungle Fever, use the slopey gaston to the left and grab the triangle and top out Per Jungle Fever. Basically skips the "crux" of Jungle), I rested for 22 minutes. After telling myself I could finish the six pack off (have fun with your Gatorade kids!) if I sent Jungle today, I put my shoes back on and fired it off first try today. Its the first time I've felt psyched to send something at Mortar in…a long time. I was able to go down the street to Indian Rock, see my friend Austin Cheung, and repeat The Bubble for the first time in years. It's still committing as it first was and I remember why I never repeated as I topped out. I think some guy, some funny guy said, "That was terrifying." and another funny guy, some wise guy said, "Terrifying. Define: TERRIFYING. When you think you're life is going to be over. likethat."

The City and Golden Gate

It's an awfully long walk…back to the train from here

Thanks for reading, have a good day.

Time is a man made deception

I once overheard some smug hipster make a comment about time. Ironically it was on 11/11/11. Those sneaky bastards! Always ironic. Or is it moronic? Either way…time has been spent mostly indoors. The weather this past week has provided a window of opportunity for some outside days. Castle Rock on Wednesday with Ben and Meg was cold and crisp. Crisper than a wafer thin cracker. I managed to do the Sharma Traverse/360° Traverse. It really is a 270° traverse since the full 360° has a tree blocking the last little bit.

Champions!

We ventured over to the Nature Nazis after I proceeded to get spanked like an ugly step child on Eco Terrorist. I managed to touch the lip one time. It's definitely harder than Deforestation. How much? Time will tell. Anyways, Nature Nazis, end of the day, kinda warmed down, jumped on this problem I had seen in a video of this problem, Neo Nazi Eliminate, that people were calling V6/7. If it were in Hueco or Bishop it would maybe be called V4. MAYBE. I saw this video, got a hunch it wasn't as hard as said. As it turned out, my hunch was correct. No disappoint. Ok nothing to see here, move along folks.

"The Retard" is the REAL name for this. Joel Ruscher put it up. There used to be a tiny crystal on one of the pinches and would proceed to draw blood every time. Thanks Jeremy Meigs and Melodie for the correct info on the climb.

One summer, I met two kids from Jersey. One was a 14 year old little shit that sent EVERY thing he tried that trip with the exception of Eco Terrorist. He flashed this problem in 80º heat. His name? Jason Applestein. I will never forget that Yo! Basecamp or him.

Castle Rock is always fun though. It's the best option for bouldering in the Bay Area if you can get outside and don't mind the 1hr drive from the Berkeley area (Chris Bloch driving time, fastest time so far to Castle Rock parking lot that I know of). Also, watch out for the rangers patrolling (trolling). Hide yo chalk, hide yo brushes, and don't bring the glass beer bottles or you risk getting a ticket. Yes, even for stick brushes. Witnessed some people being written up and ticketed for brushes. Respect the rule and play nice.

Bacon: if you don't eat it, hey more for me.

Thanks for reading!

Louder Than 11 presents: Straight Out of Africa

If you don't know, now you know. Louder Than 11 has had a big year. BIG. As in huge. This is their latest movie featuring Bay Area's own Scott Cory. Along with Brian Antheunisse, Dave Wetmore, and Rob D'Anastasio, witness climbing that will melt your face off. Enjoy!

Take a holiday

Besides I have not been climbing outdoors (as of today) and mostly indoors, I haven't been up to much. Trying to avoid downtown areas is proving to be difficult as I have to go through downtown Walnut Creek on a daily basis to get to the train.

I have been climbing routes again at Ironworks with Ben Eastman and Meg. All that does for my bouldering is make it feel like I can climb for longer periods of time before I start flailing around like a gumby and give in to some excuse. Joe Czerwinski once enlightened me (in regards to excuses), "Excuses are 90% true, 100% unacceptable."

While I have no interesting outdoor epics or tales to provide you with, I do have some photos. I have taken. Enjoy!

Think Ultramega on East Mt. No make it about 10 moves longer and steeper.

Ivan Greene exhausted.

Bolt to the forehead. It hurt, a lot.

Gym rats galore

This is always the most fun to set and forerun

Brian "Cuz" Hedrick

Hueco Showzen: Maximum Deadpoint

Want to get psyched on some problems at Hueco Tanks for an upcoming trip? Or are you just bored and want to watch people climbing some good problems in the desert that smells like a forest? No? Too bad! Here is last years Hueco Showzen from Chris Bloch. Enjoy!

Torque Spanner V8 [FOOTAGE]

A couple days before the two weeks I spent in Hueco Tanks with Chris and Jen, Donn and Michele Goodhew invited me to come along to Yosemite for a day trip. This was the first problem I wanted to get done with before I attempted Midnight Lightning (footage on my blog or on DeadPoint).

Thanks for watching!

Occupy Hueco

I could write some long, detailed, and untimely rambling post (or posts) about my two weeks in Hueco Tanks. But let's save some time; yours for reading and mine for typing.

First of many burritos this trip. Best carnitas I've had in CA in Jalos Taqueria off 580 in Tracy, CA

"Aye aye captain!"

Thanksgiving break was spent with Chris Bloch and Jen Atkin with special guest appearances by Joe Czerwinski and Adrianne Miller (and a cast of others as well). We decided to start our own occupy movement in Hueco Tanks State Park. We are the 1% who climb outside…and we are the 99% who get spanked on rock climbs like misbehaving children in the 1800's. For myself, it had been way to long away from Hueco Tanks and the place felt like a new area to me. My last trip I didn't do as much stuff as I felt I wanted to and wasn't as strong as I was this trip (although I still feel I need to be stronger for about 50% of the stuff I would like to climb there). Two weeks didn't feel like enough time to do half of what I wanted or see what I wanted to see.

Occupy Hueco: We are the 1%

Because no one really wants to read in great detail about how I flashed V9 or V5, here's a problem (V5 and up) run down of the trip (for myself). Chris Bloch gathered the video so he has the footage.

Animal Acts (V5)

Pink Moon (V5)

Walrus in a Blender (V5)

Winged Victory (V5)

Dragonfly (V5)

That Hi-Pro Glow (V6)

See Spot Run (V6) *Saw a video of Brandi Proffit doing this making it look easier than doing some scary, sketchy ass hand foot match because I had no clue what to do. She made it look casual, while I think I made it look like I was about to pitch off backwards in the footage.
Big Iron on His Hip (V7) *If people are climbing on the the problem before you, don't barge in and attack the wall. Be kind and ask the person if they mind you climbing on the problem with them. Offer to brush holds kids.
McBain (V8)
Beer Can Traverse (V9) *Finger friendly with possibly the highest dab factor of any climb I have ever climbed.
P.F.O.S. (V9) *Again, always ask to climb with the person who was there before you get on the climb and flash it. Brush the holds for them too so they can send right after you…kids.
Frogger (V9) *Possibly one of the coolest lines I flashed after Chris pieced me out on it fifth try.
10-10 (V10) *Feels V10 when you have a squawker in your ear, a bruised heel for the heel hooks, and a bruised foot from the day before on it.

"Execute the moves flawlessly and you will send." -James Conn
(10-10, V10)

Typical dinners this trip. That's right that was made on a Coleman stove people. Thanks Jen and Adrianne!

Adrianne Miller on The Fin (V4). 

Occupy Barnes & Noble

I ended up doing 22 new problems this trip, with all the warm ups and moderates I did. It was a fun trip and I learned a lot. Hopefully I can go back this season again with some friends and chip away at my new list (revisions were made) that is 44 problems now instead of 58 as my original list proposed.

"Access is a gift. Climbing is a gift. This place, is a gift."

Jen Atkin

"I want a litre a cola."

By the time I get to Arizona 

Sunset in Wilcox.

Home…sort of. 9 more hours from this sign. Sigh.

Thanks for reading!

Occupy Hueco is coming…

The past two weeks have been void of any update due to my participation in the occupy movement taking place in Hueco Tanks. 2 weeks of camping and climbing on the boulders was much needed with good friends.

As you read this, I am typing away. Clickity clickity clickity CLACK! The keyboard sounds like a gat with the repeated hitting of keys faster than my eyes care to see. Although I'm not really looking at the keyboard…ANYWHO, sit tight y'all.

Or better yet, take advantage of the weather we have going on in the Bay (if you're here) and get outside. Me? I'm waiting till I'm rested up to go climbing. Get o n out ya hear??

Thanks for reading!

Mortar Rock

Last Thursday I went to Mortar Rock with the intention of destroying my skin in hopes of building calluses for the upcoming two weeks to Hueco Tanks with Chris and Jen. I did not plan on sending any projects or even coming close to doing moved I had previously thought to never have and never will be able to stick. Seems the rock gods had other plans for those intentions. Here's what I mean by the previous statement:

• Jungle Fever went from not being able to move off the first hold to grabbing the peanut. This problems feels harder than Midnight due to having a low percentage crux because body positioning always being a key factor to success.
• New Wave. Yet again, I couldn't fathom standing up into the undercling, let alone actually grabbing the pocket type hold until trying it today.

I has also been fun to see that sometimes the two words in climbing, On Command, still hold some value with the classic Nat's Traverse. Hopefully these words can hold true for the Impossible Wall problem when I try the lower problems as well (Mission Impossible and the ridiculousness that is known as Chinese Connection which I definitely need to be stronger for). Impossible Wall was put into the bag of sent problems today. First try of the day, first try coming back to it since June when the conditions where less than ideal. I was also able to get some footage from the previous day on a solo mission at Mortar where I did Nat's (on command) and the obscure warm up Girl's Problem Low. I put all three sends into one clip. You can view the video on DeadPoint or you can watch it right here, right now. Enjoy!

Thanks for reading

Midnight Lightning V8 [FOOTAGE]

Ride the lightning! Here's the footage of Midnight Lightning I captured via camera on tripod. Thanks to Mad Rock for the shoes, Organic Climbing for the pads, and the mass amount of people for the additional pads, spots, and psyche so I didn't eat complete shit on the slightly wet from Friday's rain top out.

Here's the footage! Enjoy!

Thanks for reading!

Yosemite Valley

Michele and Donn Goodhew invited me for some rock climbing in Yosemite Valley on Sunday. It turned out to be an amazing day. Temperatures were PRIME. Cold and sticky. The rock felt amazing. Possibly the best conditions you could ask for a day of climbing in Yosemite.

Sunrise on the drive out

Cold conditions = prime temps

Lander and the pads

Breakfast of…me?

We stayed in Camp 4 all day. Warming up at the Wine Boulder/Cocaine Corner Area. It felt good to get on rock. Since returning from Colorado I had climbed once outside at Mortar Rock this past Thursday with Michele and Chris Bloch. Today was my second day outside home and it was a perfectly “welcome back” to climbing outside. I completed Torque Spanner which should be known as Tweaky Spanner. My wrists felt like they were about to rip off. It was good to do finally.

Chris Bloch got me psyched to get on Midnight Lightning. “The lightning bolt is a finger bucket. When you get to the mantle, really put chalk on you left palm to mantel to the good hold,” he told me. In the back of my mind tucked away, I wasn’t positive thinking. It’s hard, the mantel’s over that rock. Even Sharma ate shit on it and tweaked Andy Puhvel’s ankle (and sent next try) once back in the day before the first season of Yo! Basecamp. That story was in the back of my head anytime I thought about the problem. Please don’t pitch off, please don’t pitch off, was the only thought before I tried. My first try I didn't stick the first hold, but second try I stuck the first move to the lightning bolt. Third try I missed the bolt hold, while my fourth try I got to the mantel and almost ate shit. My forearm was knocking my hand off and I was spooked I might eat it onto my face. I opted to come down to collect myself. I got collected, set my camera up (thankfully!) and promptly sent on my fifth try. The mantel was the crux for me. Donn gave me the best beta to turn my left elbow in and look at the Wine Boulder. Once the boulder came into my sights, I hopped my right foot up and pressed it out. It’s a do or die commitment up there. There is no exit but the next hold. As I reached up, I could sense my left palm slipping. Already pressing up, I had to go for it. As soon as my arm extended it was full on Cards (John Cardiel) "IT'S ON!" popped into my head. I stuck the jug and never felt so relieved to top out a boulder problem. It's the most rewarding problem I have ever done. Scott Cory says that sending a hard route is more rewarding than completing a boulder problem. While I tend to agree on some points, this was not the case. This is the quintessential boulder problem. It's tricky, has a jump move, a fucked up mantel (fucked up is good, shitty is bad), and a slab. All the elements of climbing in one boulder problem (except crack because crack is whack without a rack kids).

Mission Accomplished

It hasn't FULLY sunk in that I actually did. Slowly it's seeping into my head that I never have to do that mantel again. No other mantel will ever freak me out like this one. But then again, no other mantel will ever be as rewarding as the Midnight Lightning mantel. EVER. 

Michele on a slab. A healthy diet of slabs is high in frustration if you aren't very good at them.

Gumballs bigger than your mouth

Thanks for reading!

p.s.- Video will be posted soon here. More on that story later.