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May 29, 2011

Work in progress

The last couple of days I have spent climbing outside at Mortar Rock. I'm pretty excited to do somethings up there right now in this perfect weather. It's unusually cool and dry for May. A typical May day at Mortar results in humid conditions or the rock is too hot causing your finger tips to sweat profusely resulting in holds feels even worse than they do.

Tuesday was a break through day for myself as I was able to actually do the start of the Kraken. Now if only I could do New Wave or Jungle Fever then I would be able to do Full Fever or the Kraken. But for now, I'm trying to link the sit into Stan's Traverse for Full Stan's. Rebecca Taggart mentioned that their was a sit to it after I had mentioned something about doing Stan's Traverse Extension Back in February.


Being able to actually do that start to the last hard move on Stan's three times in a row made me realize that it's training. It's 26 moves in all (utilizing the toe hook in the undercling). Sue mentioned that I should be doing routes as well. I joked about how I should do routes to train for bouldering. Which makes some sense now. Why not learn to recover faster when I'm resting? I made the mistake of trying to shake out at the undercling. I just ended up pumped not being able to pull the trigger on the last move, falling out of the mailbox hold three times. My arms felt like the old time glass soda bottles shaken up, ready to explode in your face. It also helps when you can go straight to a place and have a warm up circuit. In time, it'll have to be modified, as it happens when you get stronger.



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