Successful Surprise Sends

Today's climbing was brought to you by; the letter S. Slopers. And, good conditions.

The Bay Area weather has been phenomenal for outdoor rock climbing. Already this month I have 96 points (see here for point system explanation) and I've had only four climbing days outside. So psyched! I have never felt this strong before in my life. I guess biding my time indoors this last winter is paying off. I feel focused on projects and psyched to go outside. I have so much to do. Everything is new it feels like. Castle Rock has never felt like home before, and now it's so nice to be able to go out there and climb somethings that I've looked at in the past and feel confident in trying them. It also helps when you go with someone whose equally as psyched to climb. Who doesn't get bummed you broke a foot off a hard problem that keeps breaking over and over and over again, year after year.

Cryil Lavier on the Unnamed problem V9 at the Magoos

Michele Goodhew and I went back to Castle with some unfinished business (for her). But to be honest, she had barely just gotten started. We met Cryil at the Magoos trying this plausible looking problem to the left of Mr. Magoo. I was intrigued and he got me psyched. We warmed up okay. I fell off every warm up attempt. I did not think I would have anything today based on my warm ups. Slipping off starts isn't the biggest confidence builder. I started working the problem Cryil was on for about 30 minutes before I had touched the crux hold. Another 30 minutes later, I held the hold twice before finally hanging on to send it. One move off glassy feet. You just have to put your feet on and pull. Hopefully you stick and stay on the wall long enough to get your feet on better holds. It's a one move wonder. Guide says V9/10 but we agreed on the crux being a V9 move for us.

Michele topping out Tree Route. Good job!

After doing that, we ventured to Parking Lot Rock so Michele could put Tree Route in the bag. After one attempt, she rested and let me do the Parking Lot Traverse (V7). That must have gotten her psyched seeing me doing the end of it (which is Tree Route) because the very next go, she stuck the last hold and topped out. Seeing someone work something and then be excited to get it makes me more excite to climb and send things. Cryil and I hopped on Deforestation. I really did not think I had this in me today. I already had one bonus problem done, maybe a second one.

Never underestimate the power, of the psyche.

Every attempt brought me closer to sticking the good high crimp. One attempt I tried dynoing for it, stuck it with two fingers for a second, and dropped. That's when those two words in my head jumped out, in the style of John Cardiel (ALL HAIL CARDIEL!), "It's On!"

Five minutes of rest followed by a five minute jog to the car for  my iPod for some inspiration music (not really, I just like music when I climb sometimes) , and I was on the problem staring down the crimp. Dynoing to it, latching it, and rolling my thumb over my fingers never felt SO GOOD. A quick high step and almost fall from the last move (scared me a bit) and a broken foothold later, Deforestation went from project to sent. In reality (as opposed to some other state on consciousness), Cryil accidentally broke the hold, but I'm taking the heat for this one (since I have the broken piece in my pack). So the high foot beta does not exist any more. Maybe it does for someone smaller. Both of us agreed on V10. The dyno off the small left hand crimp to a right hand quarter pad edge and a hand-foot match on the small left hand to be able to stand up to the finishing hold made this one of the hardest problems I have done.

Deforestation V10

The now broken higher foot. Sorry!

Getting stronger rules.

Thanks for reading!