Sabboth Bloody Sabboth

No it's not a post about Black Sabboth. It's just about the climbing I had today, which happens to be Sunday.

Michele Goodhew (another route setter from Bridges whose psyched to climb outside) and I went back to Castle Rock. I have been here six days already this year and 2011 has just started. I've already done 86 points. These "points" are unlike 8a.nu scorecard points. There are no bonuses for flashes, onsights, or second tries. The rating of what you felt the climb was, is how many points you get.

Example: V10 = 10 points

Make sense? It's non competitive but it makes you want to do a lot of climbs and use your time wisely. At least it does for me. 

The trend of doing something new when I go climbing has been on a roll. Today I did two problems I had tried before and one problem I had looked at but saved for another time. I did the lower start to Tree Route. Michele was really psyched to get on Tree Route (V4) at Parking Lot Rock after seeing my beta I used for the top. The problem isn't technically difficult but has a crux exit that requires either a high step onto a flat jug or some other foot beta you can conjure up. She got higher than ever on it she said. Serious progress is good. It can get you psyched up to come back and send the problem.

I wanted to do Coz Daddy Roof (V6) since I had put in the effort a couple of times. Frustratingly I forgot my beta for this line. Since I can't use the big undercling like most people I found a way to gain the pocket easier but forgot until Michele pointed out another sloper that was closer. It worked and I used it to finally do the thing. 

I wanted to show Michele Static Reach on the other side. It's deceptive. It looks easy (and for some people, it is). But when you pull on it, it's a whole different ball game. She was surprised that she was psyched on it. Given that we were there, I checked out the Clam Traverse (V9) Originally called Sharma Traverse back in the day, it's a slight butt dragger. It's a lip traverse on a good right hand slopey lip, while the left hand has a good jug undercling to work with. I wanted to do it, but didn't think today was the day. How wrong was I. I pulled on and got to the crux first try. I did the crux sequence, got my beta and tried to link it. Knowing I had a limited amount of time left for the day and that I was really close, I couldn't leave this for another day. It had to be next try (third try).

All or nothing

Winner takes all.

By any means necessary.

They say third time is the charm and today that held true for this problem. 

Getting stronger rules.

Thanks for reading!