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February 4, 2011

Thursday Friday Happy Days, Saturday What a Day Grooving all Week With YOUUUU....

February has started were January left off, on the uphill climb of becoming stronger. Here is a recap of the past two days (Thursday & Friday).

THURSDAY

I woke up to text messages from Chris saying how he was close on Deforestation. Yet another project on the life time tick list that will happen. It's kinda rad. In turn, hearing that news got me psyched to go up to Mortar Rock and do Stan's Traverse Extension (Nat's Backwards starting at New Wave). I had played around on it, but didn't consider it something of a project. Especially since I had already done Nat's Backwards (or Stan's Traverse, confusing isn't it?) a couple of years ago. But after learning some toe hook trickery, it ended up going a lot smoother than the first time for me. All I had to do was rework the mail slot (the corner section near the beginning of Nat's Traverse) and it was in the bag. Thankfully I was able to do it in one shot from the New Wave start. Starting there adds four moves. you may be thinking, "Four moves surely doesn't add up," but in this climb it does. It's a pump factor. And if you can fight the pump, then you should be good enough to do the damn thing sooner or later. Forwards and backwards.

The View From The Bay


British lady & her wolf hound

FRIDAY
Scott Cory and I went to Castle Rock. He was really psyched to try Deforestation. In the back of my mind, I always put Deforestation in the category of "Possible Projects" while attempting it half assed the last time I was there with Will and Austin. After touching the higher decent crimp on the problem, it went from possible project to "Category Project". It looks impossible and to stay on will require footwork, contact strength, and an iron will. We then proceeded to get demolished by Eco Terrorist and headed across the street. I wanted to finish of Static Reach. This problem is NOT my style. Sloppy, squeezy. It was almost an epic. I was getting frustrated to be honest. I don't understand how people say this is easy. For me, it's not. I managed to do this only after Scott did the lower sit first try after doing the high start in three tires. First time touching the lower holds and he took it to the top. It looks ridiculously hard.

I was most psyched to show Scott the Klinghoffers. More psyched to actually have him flash (because there is no onsighting anymore) Right Hand Man. If I flashed it, Scott had too. To our surprise, he blew the flash. I'll be honest, I don't do problems first try that Scott doesn't do easily. Seeing him fall got me excited (sorry bud, it's the only thing I got on you! Lemme have it!).


One of the funniest texts I've received


Expectations of a flash were dashed. I showed him the Klinghoffer Traverse. We both got on it. Somehow, I was the only send of the full thing. I was told that the full line was the traverse AND top problem. Ending in the big hueco was not an option. The top isn't that hard, just a little heady since if you do fall the landing is sloped down. But other than that, it's not that bad. Just another classic off the to-do list. I also though Scott would either flash or send Way Dubious Contortionist Low. Today was the day I learned his arch nemesis is the double flat edge undercling. For me, today was the day I did Technical Contortionist Low to cap off my day.

It was a fun day. Getting to climb with Scott is a rare thing now. The last time I saw him was October at the Oakland bouldering comp, when I still had a mohawk. I hadn't seen him since I cut it. Three months to the day that I haven't had a mohawk....my hair grows fast man...

Thanks for reading!
Sunset on the way out

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