It's On

Friday was one of those days that looked grim for climbing rocks. From San Pablo Ave, the Berkeley hills looked incredibly foggy though dissipating at a rapid pace from noon and on. Chris Bloch and I have been venturing up to Mortar Rock to try some classic rock climbs (probably some old Nat Smale projects that people think they do the FA of but don't do their research on...chuffers). We had about a hour of solitude before other people started showing up. That hour was the start of a fruitful working day.

Mortar Rock is a place were you can't show up and flash or onsight the hard lines (unless you're ridiculously strong and have an iron will). The rock hurts your fingers tips after a hour of constant trying. The conditions need to be low humidity, high 50s, and slight breeze for your hands to stick.

Conditions weren't perfect, but close enough. Chris and I warmed up better than Wednesday which made us more psyched to climb. I tried Jungle Fever again. I feel as though every day I get a little bit higher and closer to the triangle hold. I can grab the peanut hold, now knowing to shift my weight over my left hip. I bashed my elbow trying to gain the finger lock hold. Twice. In the same spot. And the Mortar Rock rock climbing gods said, "Not today son." Watching Chris get closer on New Wave was rad. These two problems for us have gone from "Never Have Never Will" to "Oh My God, This Will Go".

Impossible Wall (upper left)

One project that will go soon is Impossible Wall. I went from not having any chance to having some chance on sending it. I grabbed the first crimp after that start, locked it in, messed around getting my left foot marched with my left hand, and then it picked off. Oh well. I fought for it that try. And since I had never touched the first hold and I got close to actually DOING the problem, I call that a somewhat success.

In the words of John Cardiel, "It's On!"