Lazy Sunday!

No, not exactly. I woke before noon.

8am on the dot to be real.

It feels like a normal thing to wake up early now. Wake up, catch a train, go climbing, come home, eat dinner, watch Jeopardy and Wheel of Fortune (two shows I never get sick of), go to bed. Home routine is good. Climbing in the morning is a little better for me. I forget about time and there's not a ton of kids running around (something I don't miss).

Somewhere in the City

However, I do miss Taco Truck Friday Nights after Bridges (something I'm willing to sacrifice for sleep), climbing with friends (other than my regular climbing partners), and I miss the bickering of boulder problems from people who think they know all about setting, but haven't put in the time, effort, or thought to setting a route or a boulder problem. Wait a minute, that's something I don't miss. Ah well, maybe a little bit...


This break from work has given me insight to my own personal training: try not to close crimp. Fortunately this seems to be working in terms of getting pumped quicker and feeling like I'm trying a lot more. I discovered that too much closed crimping hurts my first joint on my fingers and makes my sessions significantly shorter. Coming to the conclusion that if I want to climb longer and feel like I have improved a quality that used to be non-existent (open handed crimp strength), I would have to develop some sort of "training". I put that word in quotations because I have no formal regiment (as of yet). I just climb a lot of boulder problems till I get pumped and stopping when I fall to a crumpled heap on pads. It's a good way to get my confidence built back up from being lower than Atlantis.


Hopefully all the climbing while forgetting the time works out. Open handed crimps are a weakness of mine. I am fortunate to be able to work this weakness easily (since us setters at Bridge don't have many slopers). I will set an open hand trainer for myself and the public to climb on. The kids comp provided me with excellent motivation (as well as public feedback about the reaches) to try and set for the people with short reaches. I'm excited to see if what I have thought in my head will work out. Update on that to follow this week.

Enough rambling, time to get on with my rest day and get going. Have a good one today.

Thanks for reading!