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October 5, 2011

Arthur's Rock

Every one has to have a sharper than average place to climb. It makes you appreciate rock that doesn't bite back as rough. "Can't enjoy sunny days without rainy ones," or something like that.

Sunday (a reoccurring climbing day) Jeff, Nina, and myself were originally going to venture to Endo Valley. A last minute decision, after their other friends had to attend to other pressing matters, led us to Arthur's Rock. It's got a nice hike to some boulders on a hillside. The rock quality was solid, the sharpness I likened to Mortar Rock back home. The technical climbing was on par with everything else I had witness out here.




The gem of the area is this 20ft V7 called Godzilla. It's straight forward all around. A couple of crimp leads to a dyne for a horn at the 15ft mark. Nina was the only one who didn't get demolished by the problem. We ventured up to The Vice which houses a cool V9 aptly named Bear Hug. While the heat was rehabilitating for our psyche, we were determined to not give in and call it quits. It must have been the heat because every holds felt warm. Even the V3 felt hard in the sun. But it was a great "warm up" (even though we had warmed up by jumping on Godzilla first) to do. 

Fingerlock Campus Mantle feels harder than V3 in the heat. Victory!
photo: Nina Williams
photo: Nina Williams
After sending that Nina was done, saving skin for Joe's Valley this coming weekend (yes we're all stoked!). Jeff was excited to redo this cool V7 called Clutch. It's another gem of the area. It climbs amazingly well. The business is in the beginning. Trickery with your foot work allow you to gain the jugs at the base of the roof leading to the mantle. My MadRock Concepts were the perfect shoe for this boulder problem. 
Clutch V7
photo: Nina Williams
photo: Nina Williams
photo: Nina Williams
Thanks for reading!

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