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November 17, 2011

Mortar Rock

Last Thursday I went to Mortar Rock with the intention of destroying my skin in hopes of building calluses for the upcoming two weeks to Hueco Tanks with Chris and Jen. I did not plan on sending any projects or even coming close to doing moved I had previously thought to never have and never will be able to stick. Seems the rock gods had other plans for those intentions. Here's what I mean by the previous statement:

  • Jungle Fever went from not being able to move off the first hold to grabbing the peanut. This problems feels harder than Midnight due to having a low percentage crux because body positioning always being a key factor to success.
  • New Wave. Yet again, I couldn't fathom standing up into the undercling, let alone actually grabbing the pocket type hold until trying it today.
I has also been fun to see that sometimes the two words in climbing, On Command, still hold some value with the classic Nat's Traverse. Hopefully these words can hold true for the Impossible Wall problem when I try the lower problems as well (Mission Impossible and the ridiculousness that is known as Chinese Connection which I definitely need to be stronger for). Impossible Wall was put into the bag of sent problems today. First try of the day, first try coming back to it since June when the conditions where less than ideal. I was also able to get some footage from the previous day on a solo mission at Mortar where I did Nat's (on command) and the obscure warm up Girl's Problem Low. I put all three sends into one clip. You can view the video on DeadPoint or you can watch it right here, right now. Enjoy!



Thanks for reading

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