We stayed in Camp 4 all day. Warming up at the Wine Boulder/Cocaine Corner Area. It felt good to get on rock. Since returning from Colorado I had climbed once outside at Mortar Rock this past Thursday with Michele and Chris Bloch. Today was my second day outside home and it was a perfectly “welcome back” to climbing outside. I completed Torque Spanner which should be known as Tweaky Spanner. My wrists felt like they were about to rip off. It was good to do finally.
Chris Bloch got me psyched to get on Midnight Lightning. “The lightning bolt is a finger bucket. When you get to the mantle, really put chalk on you left palm to mantel to the good hold,” he told me. In the back of my mind tucked away, I wasn’t positive thinking. It’s hard, the mantel’s over that rock. Even Sharma ate shit on it and tweaked Andy Puhvel’s ankle (and sent next try) once back in the day before the first season of Yo! Basecamp. That story was in the back of my head anytime I thought about the problem. Please don’t pitch off, please don’t pitch off, was the only thought before I tried. My first try I didn't stick the first hold, but second try I stuck the first move to the lightning bolt. Third try I missed the bolt hold, while my fourth try I got to the mantel and almost ate shit. My forearm was knocking my hand off and I was spooked I might eat it onto my face. I opted to come down to collect myself. I got collected, set my camera up (thankfully!) and promptly sent on my fifth try. The mantel was the crux for me. Donn gave me the best beta to turn my left elbow in and look at the Wine Boulder. Once the boulder came into my sights, I hopped my right foot up and pressed it out. It’s a do or die commitment up there. There is no exit but the next hold. As I reached up, I could sense my left palm slipping. Already pressing up, I had to go for it. As soon as my arm extended it was full on Cards (John Cardiel) "IT'S ON!" popped into my head. I stuck the jug and never felt so relieved to top out a boulder problem. It's the most rewarding problem I have ever done. Scott Cory says that sending a hard route is more rewarding than completing a boulder problem. While I tend to agree on some points, this was not the case. This is the quintessential boulder problem. It's tricky, has a jump move, a fucked up mantel (fucked up is good, shitty is bad), and a slab. All the elements of climbing in one boulder problem (except crack because crack is whack without a rack kids).
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| Mission Accomplished |
It hasn't FULLY sunk in that I actually did. Slowly it's seeping into my head that I never have to do that mantel again. No other mantel will ever freak me out like this one. But then again, no other mantel will ever be as rewarding as the Midnight Lightning mantel. EVER.
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| Michele on a slab. A healthy diet of slabs is high in frustration if you aren't very good at them. |
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