Mas pictures

I'm sure this has been done before

Work

Stretch it out

Positive

Michele in the Buttermilks

Scott (top), Gregor (middle), Emily (bottom)

Part 5: Bishop in April

April, 15, 2011
Second Rest day this trip. I have this thing about pain. And I don't wanna be in that much pain from bouldering. 

mmmmm....beer

Anyways, after walking the town of Bishop from West Line to Vons (not that far), I went up to the Buttermilks with Kevin, Emilia, and Aaron to get the hell out of town for a couple hours. It's nice to be able to go up and enjoy such an amazing place and not have to climb there. Being with friends is good enough.

Part 4: Bishop in April

April 14, 2011
Second rest day. Tried Fly Boy Sit and this problem around the corner. In the guide it's called "Almost" and supposedly V4. However the holds are sparsely chalked up, mostly from Kevin and Charlie doing it. Charlie claims a FA and called it Kevin's Project since he red taped it as Kevin worked the moves. If you have good skin and are not tired, it goes. Otherwise, not. Charlie said it was, "Planet Granite V9, Vertex V7." 

Climber: Shannon
Spotter: Charlie(L) Ryan (R)

There ended up being a gang of people and pads trying Fly Boy. Emilia cam really close (eventually sending the next day). Shannon showed up and threw down. It was unbelievable how hard she goes for something. There is no, medium tossing. She went big and got bucked. First fall was a complete superman off the jug. Charlie spotted her well and the force from the spot sent him reeling backwards and down to the pad. Kevin said her face bounced twice on the pad. She sat up and laughed it off. Like it was nothing!

Part 3: Bishop in April

Black Sheep

April 13, 2011
After a rest day involving walking up and down Main St. (HWY 395), we decided to go back to the Happy's. It ended up feeling like a summer day in the afternoon. But the temps in the morning provided shade at Acid Wash. It's hard to pull off the ground for the start. Scott said it took him awhile to figure the start when he did it so I feel much better. It took me probably 30 minutes to latch the jug from the sit. After that it's just keeping it together enough for the throw. I had to figure out some different foot beta than originally shown. After about 30 minutes more of falling on the last move from the sit consistently, I wasn't gaining anything but a sense of fatigue. That's when our mutual friend Shannon Moore showed up and revamped the psyche for Grindrite. It's a cool looking problem but technical. Atypical for Happy Boulder problem. After both Shannon and myself did it and Michele gave some really good burns we talked about going up to Cholos. I had never been on it before and wanted to see if I had it in me.

Part 2: Bishop in April

Start your day right with donuts and coffee at Schat's

April 10, 2011
The day felt short. It felt hot. It felt...like what a second day on should feel like. My skin was starting to get fried. Warming up with an up climb then down climbing it. I lost track of time but knew I had to do High Plains soon as it was in the shade. I need to slightly numb out. I grabbed my pad and shoes and hope the people I saw were still there. I needed more than my pad.

Lander waking up with Saturday morning cartoons

What was left of breakfast

Part 1: Bishop in April

Lander at In-N-Out

April 9, 2011
Michele, Lander (Michele's 6yr old son), and myself made the trek out to Bishop for some down-home country boulder ascension. Taking HWY 50 cut down on time and allowed to arrive here in a manageable fashion.

After a good nights rest, we went to the Happy Boulders to start our week long trip on the right foot. Or left foot depending on your stance...I digress. I got a really good long warm up repeating things and doing easy highballs. Michele expressed interest in Every Color You Are, a problem I had done last time I was out here. I gave her some beta and it worked for her. She says my beta works for her as it has lead her to at least one send at Castle (see previous post). Afterwards she got me psyched to try Mr. Witty. Housed on the same boulder as Every Color, I gave it a ago. Completely numbing out (hands and feet) I picked off the foot not being able to feel it first try at the top. Five minutes of warming my appendages back up, I latched the top of the problem.
Riding the psyche train, I decided Morning Dove White needed to be laid to rest.

High Plains Drifter

Finally! Proverbial monkey off my back! I have NO idea why I couldn't pull the trigger earlier for this climb. As in back in 2007 when I first tried it with Anthony Taraciso and Jarod Arnsten.

I watched  Anthony run laps on it and I would fall at the drifter move every, single, time. It probably helped that I went two weekends before this and figured out to stay on the wall.

Thanks to Mad Rock Climbing for the shoes and Organic Climbing for the pads and chalk bag. And to anyone else that has bouldered with me!

Enough talk! Here it is! Enjoy.



Thanks for reading and watching!

Amateur Hours

It has been a long while it feels like since an update on the climbing that's been happening. Let's get right to it...

This past weekend (3/25-3/37) in Bishop was a great experience of being served some great tasting humble pie. Only doing a couple problems, all of them ones I had never done before, was fun in its self. I

Scott Cory and I started the drive on Friday morning. He needed new tires. About 50 miles after they were installed, a loud bell went off. Low tire pressure. Thinking they didn't fill one all the way up, we put some air in it. After filling it, he noticed a hissing sound coming from the tire. He decided to get food and see if the pressure dropped after we ate. Sure enough, it dropped again. Finding another America's Tires was 25 minutes towards HWY 99. A little out of the way, but then a straight shot down to Bakersfield. Skip ahead a hour...New tires without a nail in it (old on picked up a nail within 50 miles of being put on). We're FINALLY on the road.