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April 18, 2011

Part 1: Bishop in April

Lander at In-N-Out
April 9, 2011
Michele, Lander (Michele's 6yr old son), and myself made the trek out to Bishop for some down-home country boulder ascension. Taking HWY 50 cut down on time and allowed to arrive here in a manageable fashion.

After a good nights rest, we went to the Happy Boulders to start our week long trip on the right foot. Or left foot depending on your stance...I digress. I got a really good long warm up repeating things and doing easy highballs. Michele expressed interest in Every Color You Are, a problem I had done last time I was out here. I gave her some beta and it worked for her. She says my beta works for her as it has lead her to at least one send at Castle (see previous post). Afterwards she got me psyched to try Mr. Witty. Housed on the same boulder as Every Color, I gave it a ago. Completely numbing out (hands and feet) I picked off the foot not being able to feel it first try at the top. Five minutes of warming my appendages back up, I latched the top of the problem.
Riding the psyche train, I decided Morning Dove White needed to be laid to rest.


Within ten minutes of sending Me. Witty and getting the pads around the corner, I finally stood atop Morning Dove. Don't have to go back for a while now.

Michele wanted to do this problem call Crispen Waddy. Will's Young only gave it one star in the book. I ended up liking it, being able to do it with a long deadpoint move to a deep two finger pocket off the start allowing me to skip some not so good edges. 
Maddie and Noah at Gleaner

On the way back down canyon I was enticed to try Gleaner. It's a pretty rad problem and gave me a spanking for ten minutes. But after meeting up with Raaaaaandy, Noah, and Maddie from Climb-X Gym and their coach(?) I tried the drop knee beta and was able to skip the whole rail and go straight to the hidden pocket. It is a rad problem and the sit looks incredibly hard. Jumping with anticipation Michele suggested we go do the highball Black Magic. It was my first slab highball problem. It was another RAD problem. Crimps and small holds leads to the halfway break where you can't drop off and the holds get better. Its a good introduction to highballs if you haven't done anything high before. 


Cosmic Bowling
That night Scott Cory, his girlfriend Emily, Gregor Peirce, and I went bowling. And since none of us bowl that often, it was all fun and games. Scott ended up winning the two games we played before leaving for camp. It was the best conclusion to the first day.

But the week has just begun...

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