Two Days

Since Captain Planet decided that enough was enough and made the sunny weather with crisp, cooler, breezy conditions for bouldering outside go away, my time has been spent at Bridges Rock Gym. Mostly just to stay fit and and not lose my psyche.

TUESDAY
We reset the backside of the south boulder (the big boulder near the desk). I don't have photos of it, but if you have climbed there recently you may have noticed we made things with really short reaches. The main reason for that was because of the YCL (Youth Climbing League) comp this Saturday being held at Bridges. Unlike last year, where the kids from Bridges had done all the climbs beforehand (making it unfair for the other teams), we set specific problems for the kids. Short reaches and making sure they can get off the ground. If you have been there in the past two days, you'll notice that it's probably a lot different than most of our sets. Personally, it opened my eyes on how to set for shorter people. It can be hard when you have a reach of 5'11" and set for someone who isn't.

WEDNESDAY
I woke up around 6:30am so I could get in an early session on the new stuff. Even after forerunning all the problems Tuesday, I couldn't think of a better way to get pumped and stay fit. It feels nice to be able to climb through a set and then be able to come back and then get shutdown some days. It's all training right? Makes you try to get pissed off at yourself and give up that day. At least for me.

If you haven't heard, seen, or smelled the new cafe upstairs, Spread, I highly recommend you try it out. It's way better than the cafe before (overpriced, bland and unfriendly). Spread is run by Mike. He's friendly and has some delicious sandwiches and pizzas.

Eggs, mushrooms, and garlic pizza

Post climbing recovery meal...I think. I feel like it helped. Maybe it's the 4 mile walk home that made me even more tired than boulder did...hmmmmm. The world may never know. The follow pictures are some I've taken over the past couple of weeks for you to enjoy. So...enjoy!

Raha 

When slacklines bite back

Dan Portik

$1 tacos on a Friday night 

Captain Planet says, "I make it rain!"

Organic

Tanning parties? Really? Can you say waste of money? The sun is free...just sayin'

Thanks for reading!

Nontitled

Because of the rain and having a slight cold, I wasn't up to climbing as much as I had been. I'd like to get something outside to get over 100 points this month to add to my point total. The year goal has gone from 100 to 500 to 1G (1,000) in points. That is a lot of rock climbing. But it's not a far of goal as I originally thought to be.

Chris Bloch said he has something around 125 already this year. I'm around the same figure. If I keep on pace, then I should have 500 by May or June (give or take) and 1G at about say...fall, if I can climb somewhere a lot in the summer (Colorado anyone?)

Something that definitely helps these goals come to fruition is the psyche. Psyche for Mortar Rock is one. never have I felt this high of psyche for that place. I feel as if a lot of projects will happen for me this season. C'mon rain, go over to the east coast! The psyche for doing lines I had previously deemed impossible now seem probable. It also helps knowing that I don't have to be on my game every single time I go climbing. As nice as it is, some days I wont be able to climb hard. My body needs fitness days where I just do a lot of easier problems. As long as I'm still climbing mostly, I consider that a successful day.

Thanks for reading!

Move son!

Between my last outside climbing day and now, there's been a few changes. The weather for one. It has turned from sunny and glorious, to grey and rainy. So long to the sneak peak of spring and summer, hello winter (again). I guess this means more time spent inside at Bridges till the next outdoors adventure. Bishop is on that radar.

The biggest change in my life has been moving from one side of Walnut Creek to my grandparents place way up in the hills for a time being. Instead of being a three minute walk to the grocery store, restaurants, and CVS, I'm about 15 minutes on my bike (downhill) from downtown. about the same amount of time as I was from my old house to downtown. I digress...

Last Friday was my last day outside before the fiasco of moving. Coming off of Thursday at Castle with Michele, I was exhausted. Partly due to knowing what was coming ahead of me the next two days and partly because I felt like I climbed a lot (certainly gave a lot of effort on my sends) in a short amount of time. It seems that waking up early is better for my climbing than late night sessions. I've also worked resetting the cave at Bridges Tuesday. That's right. There are new problems VB-V11 in the cave there. And because the weather has reverted to winter, my opinion is that it's all good training for your next upcoming trip.

Good times for a change? Apparently.

Successful Surprise Sends

Today's climbing was brought to you by; the letter S. Slopers. And, good conditions.

The Bay Area weather has been phenomenal for outdoor rock climbing. Already this month I have 96 points (see here for point system explanation) and I've had only four climbing days outside. So psyched! I have never felt this strong before in my life. I guess biding my time indoors this last winter is paying off. I feel focused on projects and psyched to go outside. I have so much to do. Everything is new it feels like. Castle Rock has never felt like home before, and now it's so nice to be able to go out there and climb somethings that I've looked at in the past and feel confident in trying them. It also helps when you go with someone whose equally as psyched to climb. Who doesn't get bummed you broke a foot off a hard problem that keeps breaking over and over and over again, year after year.

Cryil Lavier on the Unnamed problem V9 at the Magoos

Michele Goodhew and I went back to Castle with some unfinished business (for her). But to be honest, she had barely just gotten started. We met Cryil at the Magoos trying this plausible looking problem to the left of Mr. Magoo. I was intrigued and he got me psyched. We warmed up okay. I fell off every warm up attempt. I did not think I would have anything today based on my warm ups. Slipping off starts isn't the biggest confidence builder. I started working the problem Cryil was on for about 30 minutes before I had touched the crux hold. Another 30 minutes later, I held the hold twice before finally hanging on to send it. One move off glassy feet. You just have to put your feet on and pull. Hopefully you stick and stay on the wall long enough to get your feet on better holds. It's a one move wonder. Guide says V9/10 but we agreed on the crux being a V9 move for us.

Michele topping out Tree Route. Good job!

After doing that, we ventured to Parking Lot Rock so Michele could put Tree Route in the bag. After one attempt, she rested and let me do the Parking Lot Traverse (V7). That must have gotten her psyched seeing me doing the end of it (which is Tree Route) because the very next go, she stuck the last hold and topped out. Seeing someone work something and then be excited to get it makes me more excite to climb and send things. Cryil and I hopped on Deforestation. I really did not think I had this in me today. I already had one bonus problem done, maybe a second one.

Never underestimate the power, of the psyche.

Every attempt brought me closer to sticking the good high crimp. One attempt I tried dynoing for it, stuck it with two fingers for a second, and dropped. That's when those two words in my head jumped out, in the style of John Cardiel (ALL HAIL CARDIEL!), "It's On!"

Five minutes of rest followed by a five minute jog to the car for  my iPod for some inspiration music (not really, I just like music when I climb sometimes) , and I was on the problem staring down the crimp. Dynoing to it, latching it, and rolling my thumb over my fingers never felt SO GOOD. A quick high step and almost fall from the last move (scared me a bit) and a broken foothold later, Deforestation went from project to sent. In reality (as opposed to some other state on consciousness), Cryil accidentally broke the hold, but I'm taking the heat for this one (since I have the broken piece in my pack). So the high foot beta does not exist any more. Maybe it does for someone smaller. Both of us agreed on V10. The dyno off the small left hand crimp to a right hand quarter pad edge and a hand-foot match on the small left hand to be able to stand up to the finishing hold made this one of the hardest problems I have done.

Deforestation V10

The now broken higher foot. Sorry!

Getting stronger rules.

Thanks for reading!

Sabboth Bloody Sabboth

No it's not a post about Black Sabboth. It's just about the climbing I had today, which happens to be Sunday.

Michele Goodhew (another route setter from Bridges whose psyched to climb outside) and I went back to Castle Rock. I have been here six days already this year and 2011 has just started. I've already done 86 points. These "points" are unlike 8a.nu scorecard points. There are no bonuses for flashes, onsights, or second tries. The rating of what you felt the climb was, is how many points you get.

Example: V10 = 10 points

Make sense? It's non competitive but it makes you want to do a lot of climbs and use your time wisely. At least it does for me. 

The trend of doing something new when I go climbing has been on a roll. Today I did two problems I had tried before and one problem I had looked at but saved for another time. I did the lower start to Tree Route. Michele was really psyched to get on Tree Route (V4) at Parking Lot Rock after seeing my beta I used for the top. The problem isn't technically difficult but has a crux exit that requires either a high step onto a flat jug or some other foot beta you can conjure up. She got higher than ever on it she said. Serious progress is good. It can get you psyched up to come back and send the problem.

I wanted to do Coz Daddy Roof (V6) since I had put in the effort a couple of times. Frustratingly I forgot my beta for this line. Since I can't use the big undercling like most people I found a way to gain the pocket easier but forgot until Michele pointed out another sloper that was closer. It worked and I used it to finally do the thing. 

I wanted to show Michele Static Reach on the other side. It's deceptive. It looks easy (and for some people, it is). But when you pull on it, it's a whole different ball game. She was surprised that she was psyched on it. Given that we were there, I checked out the Clam Traverse (V9) Originally called Sharma Traverse back in the day, it's a slight butt dragger. It's a lip traverse on a good right hand slopey lip, while the left hand has a good jug undercling to work with. I wanted to do it, but didn't think today was the day. How wrong was I. I pulled on and got to the crux first try. I did the crux sequence, got my beta and tried to link it. Knowing I had a limited amount of time left for the day and that I was really close, I couldn't leave this for another day. It had to be next try (third try).

All or nothing

Winner takes all.

By any means necessary.

They say third time is the charm and today that held true for this problem. 

Getting stronger rules.

Thanks for reading!

Thursday Friday Happy Days, Saturday What a Day Grooving all Week With YOUUUU....

February has started were January left off, on the uphill climb of becoming stronger. Here is a recap of the past two days (Thursday & Friday).

THURSDAY

I woke up to text messages from Chris saying how he was close on Deforestation. Yet another project on the life time tick list that will happen. It's kinda rad. In turn, hearing that news got me psyched to go up to Mortar Rock and do Stan's Traverse Extension (Nat's Backwards starting at New Wave). I had played around on it, but didn't consider it something of a project. Especially since I had already done Nat's Backwards (or Stan's Traverse, confusing isn't it?) a couple of years ago. But after learning some toe hook trickery, it ended up going a lot smoother than the first time for me. All I had to do was rework the mail slot (the corner section near the beginning of Nat's Traverse) and it was in the bag. Thankfully I was able to do it in one shot from the New Wave start. Starting there adds four moves. you may be thinking, "Four moves surely doesn't add up," but in this climb it does. It's a pump factor. And if you can fight the pump, then you should be good enough to do the damn thing sooner or later. Forwards and backwards.

The View From The Bay

British lady & her wolf hound

FRIDAY
Scott Cory and I went to Castle Rock. He was really psyched to try Deforestation. In the back of my mind, I always put Deforestation in the category of "Possible Projects" while attempting it half assed the last time I was there with Will and Austin. After touching the higher decent crimp on the problem, it went from possible project to "Category Project". It looks impossible and to stay on will require footwork, contact strength, and an iron will. We then proceeded to get demolished by Eco Terrorist and headed across the street. I wanted to finish of Static Reach. This problem is NOT my style. Sloppy, squeezy. It was almost an epic. I was getting frustrated to be honest. I don't understand how people say this is easy. For me, it's not. I managed to do this only after Scott did the lower sit first try after doing the high start in three tires. First time touching the lower holds and he took it to the top. It looks ridiculously hard.

I was most psyched to show Scott the Klinghoffers. More psyched to actually have him flash (because there is no onsighting anymore) Right Hand Man. If I flashed it, Scott had too. To our surprise, he blew the flash. I'll be honest, I don't do problems first try that Scott doesn't do easily. Seeing him fall got me excited (sorry bud, it's the only thing I got on you! Lemme have it!).

One of the funniest texts I've received

Expectations of a flash were dashed. I showed him the Klinghoffer Traverse. We both got on it. Somehow, I was the only send of the full thing. I was told that the full line was the traverse AND top problem. Ending in the big hueco was not an option. The top isn't that hard, just a little heady since if you do fall the landing is sloped down. But other than that, it's not that bad. Just another classic off the to-do list. I also though Scott would either flash or send Way Dubious Contortionist Low. Today was the day I learned his arch nemesis is the double flat edge undercling. For me, today was the day I did Technical Contortionist Low to cap off my day.

It was a fun day. Getting to climb with Scott is a rare thing now. The last time I saw him was October at the Oakland bouldering comp, when I still had a mohawk. I hadn't seen him since I cut it. Three months to the day that I haven't had a mohawk....my hair grows fast man...

Thanks for reading!

Sunset on the way out