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January 4, 2012

Yosemite Valley

6am start to the Valley
Every trip to Yosemite I seem to be served a plate of humble pie no matter what. I do a send one project, get humbled on the next. Bruce Lee did not want me to get off the ground today. Austin though, can do the moves easily. He and I are two opposites. Austin has a more technical approach to climbing (Full Fever WIRED) and climbs pretty static in comparison to my style which lends its self to more powerful and dynamic movement. But comparing styles is apples to oranges really; who cares? As long as you're trying problems right?

Although Bruce Lee took us out and spanked us like misbehaving children of the 19th century, I had much more success on Flake Out (V7) on the B1 Boulder at Sentinel Rock. Previously, I couldn't get off the ground. I couldn't pull my feet up off the ground. From there you have had to shift your weight to the right to gain and underling that leads to easy-ish terrain. It's especially fun in the dark by a not-as-bright-as-I-wanted headlamp. Thankful I had some light and spotters to top out in darkness.


Flake Out V7, 2nd go by headlamp.

Afterwards this kid, Mike, got me psyched on Slapshot. We had a lot of near sends but neither one was able to stick the crux dead point at the top in the dark. One to come back for…hopefully next week again.

Hopefully next week with Austin again. He needs to…no, he WILL send Bruce Lee. There are questions. Joe Czerwinski once told me, "Excuses are 90% true…100% unacceptable."

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